First Wave

By: Jay Lynch

I was a 21 year old, northern Delawarean, who spent every weekend of every summer at the beach. Mostly in Dewey but, also in some other areas. I had been going to the beach since I was a small child. There was always something about the ocean that called to me. I had never tried surfing before but I had alwasy wanted to. A couple of buddies of mine surfed and I had always told them that I wanted to try it. Finally, one week I decided this would be the week I surfed for the first time.

So there I was, Saturday morning, heading to the beach to meet my friends and give it a shot. When I got there, they were already out, so I had to wait for them to get back. By the time they got back it was a little too late to go out. So, I had to wait one more day.

Sunday morning (we finally got up at around 11:00) we were off. Down to O.C. to rent me a board. There was nothing else to do. I had no board and none of my friends had a spare. We hit K-Coast and they gave me this huge board, if you can call it that. It was shaped like a board and it floated, that's about it. It was made out of what felt like plastic and it was so heavy.

We head to the north surfing beach in O.C. because that one is usually less crowded. So, I wax up, strap the leash on and hit the water. Just getting out for the first time was a pain in the ass with that big piece of shit board. Luckily it wasn't that big, and I finally get in to the line-up, where I figure out that it's pretty hard just sitting on this thing. I remember thinking, "How do they do this, they make it look so easy." Finally I'm ready to go (I finally got the board turned around). A wave is coming and I'm going for it. I feel, for the first time, the feeling of the wave picking you up and I start gliding across the water. I go to get to my feet...I made it, no I didn't. I get to my feet and promptly bury the nose. Head over heals, I go flying over the front of the board. I make it back out to the line-up, so stoked and ready to charge it. I'm up again, same scenario, paddling, wave picks me up (ahhh, what a feeling), get to my feet. This time I keep the nose out of the water. I made it. I MADE IT!!!!!!! I rode straight in, no turns, no style but, I made it. After a couple hours were out of the water and back to return the rented "board". My first surfing experience is over....I'm hooked. When can I get my next fix? Gotta wait till next weekend. FUCK!!

It's the weekend after my first surfing experience. I am heading back to the beach for another go at it. I had been thinking about my first wave all week and could not wait to give it another shot. But, what am I gonna ride? I could go rent a board again, but that board sucked and besides, it's gonna get expensive if I come down every weekend and rent a board. I'll just have to buy one. I noticed last week when I rented that board that K-Coast had a good selection of used boards so, I go down there to check it out, not before I check the surf to see what it's doing. It's Saturday afternoon and it's about waist high and choppy. I'm pretty psyched and can't wait to hit it. I get to K-Coast, alone because all my boys ditched me to hit the surf (I expected it). I'm looking through these used boards and I have no idea what I'm looking at. I am looking for a short board, no bigger than 6'10", that is in good shape. I search through all these boards like I know what I'm looking for (I don't) and find my stick. It's a 6'6" Byrne. It's in pretty good shape, not dinged up all that much, and it's cheap....$200.00. They throw in a leash and some wax and I'm off. My friends are at the north surfing beach in O.C. so, I meet them there. I come running out like a 10 year old on Christmas morning running down the stairs to see what Santa left. I almost tripped on the damn leash. Obviously this board doesn't float as well as the rental, it's a lot smaller. It's easier to manage in the surf, but harder to paddle. I make it out to the line up, let all my buds see my new stick. They are excited for me but are not sure if I will be able to pick up where I left off on the rental. I'm up. A good waist high wave comes in and I'm going for it. Paddle, paddle, paddle...not even close. Damn thing is a lot harder to paddle than I thought it would be. I fall out the back of the wave, never really getting in to it. I've learned from my mistake and am ready again. Another good size wave is coming and I'm going for it. I'm paddleing and I think I'm in! I think I'm in! I AM IN!!! GET UP YOU MORON, GET UP. I pop to my feet and head straight for the beach. I don't know how to turn yet, I have no idea what I'm doing. All I know is that I am now a surfer. I will bust my ass and try and try again until I can ride even the biggest, gnarliest waves......

Do any of you remember Big Sunday? What's Big Sunday you ask? I am sure that some of you remember it. I don't remember the date, so if anyone can tell me I would greatly appreciate it.

It was an average weekend during last summer (summer of '99). I hit the Dewey around 9:00 Friday night after a long week at work. I commence to get fucked up beyond belief. I remember that cause my sister was down also and I smoked the fattest K.B.'s with her and her boyfriend who I had just met that night. I woke up Saturday afternoon (I don't remember much about the previous night) to a dismall knee high mush. Luckily, about 2 weeks prior, I had just bought a new board that was much better in smaller surf than my older board. It is a 6'2" Ripcurl Fish with fat nose for ease of entering smaller, northeastern mush. So, we went out at our secret spot. It's not that secret, it's just our spot. We had a pretty fun day but, we were all praying for bigger surf. Little did we know that our prayers would be answered. I continue my regular beach behavior and commence to get rip roarin' drunk Saturday night. Before I got too messed up, I convinced a couple of friends to get up early and hit O.C. to check it out. The night goes on as usual and we all pass out wherever we can find room. I, being very gung-ho about the nest morning, remember to set the alarm for 6:00 A.M.

When the alarm went off at 6, I did not want to move. But, I had promised people that did not live in the house that I was staying at that I would come and get them. Me and my bud get up and go to our other friends house and try to get them up. They wanted nothing to do with us and my one friend actually got violent when we tried to get him up. So, it was just the two of us. We were already up and figured we might as well go for it. We go to check the surf in Dewey and it looks pretty good. We were getting more and more excited the longer we were on the road. We finally get to southern O.C.(5th street-ish). Upon gettin out of the truck, I see a couple of guys just ending a session. I walk over and ask them how it is. I will never forget the one guys words, "Barrels for everybody." Barrels for everybody? HOLY SHIT! Sitting on the beach trying to stop shaking long enough to get my leash strapped up, I couldn't help but think about that guys words. "Barrels for everybody". Would I finally see the inside of a real toob?

We hit the water and realize that this is bigger than either of us has ever seen in person. My friend that made the trip couldn;t get out. He had a really old leash and every time he lost his board, the velcro wouldn't hold and of it came. He finally got out and caught 1 wave. He got drilled, lost his board, and didn't even try to get back out. He was done. I was still up for it. I hadn't caught a wave yet. I am being very careful. There were mostly rights coming in and I am a goofy footer and more comfortable with lefts. I get up the balls to go for it. It's a smaller wave but, still overhead. I didn't have the balls to really drop in. I stayed really high on the wave and got out of there as soon as I could. I get back to the line up and go for it again. This time I go to drop in and the speed is just too much. These waves have got to be double overhead and I'm out on a 6'2" shortboard made for small waves. I got bounced right off. I get tumbled a bit but, it's not that bad. I stay relaxed and hold my breath until it stops. I'm all right. I paddle back out. I catch a couple, get whipped on a couple, but, I am having the time of my life. I can't believe how much fun this is. I wonder if I can get covered? I'm going backside so it's gonna be tough but, I decide I'm gonna try it. First attempt, dismall. Not even close. Second attempt, closer...almost made it. A couple more tries and I can't get it. It's definately big enough; It's definately hollow enough; Why can't I get in there. I've watched enough movies...how do they do it? I know! I can grab my rail and pull myself in. It takes me a couple more tries but, I finally get it. The greatest experience in the world. I can't believe it. I look up and see this wall of water coming down over me. It is almost impossible to explain. Those of you have been there know what I'm talking about. Anyway, I surf until trhe guards come out and kick us out. Then head back to Dewey. It's a lot smaller in Dewey but, still very fun. We surf all day. One of the greatest days of my life. No Doubt.

	First Wave By: Jay Lynch I was a 21 year old, northern Delawarean, who spent every weekend of every summer at the beach. Mostly in Dewey but, also in some other areas. I had been going to the beach since I was a small child. There was always something about the ocean that called to me. I had never tried surfing before but I had alwasy wanted to. A couple of buddies of mine surfed and I had always told them that I wanted to try it. Finally, one week I decided this would be the week I surfed for the first time. So there I was, Saturday morning, heading to the beach to meet my friends and give it a shot. When I got there, they were already out, so I had to wait for them to get back. By the time they got back it was a little too late to go out. So, I had to wait one more day. Sunday morning (we finally got up at around 11:00) we were off. Down to O.C. to rent me a board. There was nothing else to do. I had no board and none of my friends had a spare. We hit K-Coast and they gave me this huge board, if you can call it that. It was shaped like a board and it floated, that's about it. It was made out of what felt like plastic and it was so heavy. We head to the north surfing beach in O.C. because that one is usually less crowded. So, I wax up, strap the leash on and hit the water. Just getting out for the first time was a pain in the ass with that big piece of shit board. Luckily it wasn't that big, and I finally get in to the line-up, where I figure out that it's pretty hard just sitting on this thing. I remember thinking, "How do they do this, they make it look so easy." Finally I'm ready to go (I finally got the board turned around). A wave is coming and I'm going for it. I feel, for the first time, the feeling of the wave picking you up and I start gliding across the water. I go to get to my feet...I made it, no I didn't. I get to my feet and promptly bury the nose. Head over heals, I go flying over the front of the board. I make it back out to the line-up, so stoked and ready to charge it. I'm up again, same scenario, paddling, wave picks me up (ahhh, what a feeling), get to my feet. This time I keep the nose out of the water. I made it. I MADE IT!!!!!!! I rode straight in, no turns, no style but, I made it. After a couple hours were out of the water and back to return the rented "board". My first surfing experience is over....I'm hooked. When can I get my next fix? Gotta wait till next weekend. FUCK!! It's the weekend after my first surfing experience. I am heading back to the beach for another go at it. I had been thinking about my first wave all week and could not wait to give it another shot. But, what am I gonna ride? I could go rent a board again, but that board sucked and besides, it's gonna get expensive if I come down every weekend and rent a board. I'll just have to buy one. I noticed last week when I rented that board that K-Coast had a good selection of used boards so, I go down there to check it out, not before I check the surf to see what it's doing. It's Saturday afternoon and it's about waist high and choppy. I'm pretty psyched and can't wait to hit it. I get to K-Coast, alone because all my boys ditched me to hit the surf (I expected it). I'm looking through these used boards and I have no idea what I'm looking at. I am looking for a short board, no bigger than 6'10", that is in good shape. I search through all these boards like I know what I'm looking for (I don't) and find my stick. It's a 6'6" Byrne. It's in pretty good shape, not dinged up all that much, and it's cheap....$200.00. They throw in a leash and some wax and I'm off. My friends are at the north surfing beach in O.C. so, I meet them there. I come running out like a 10 year old on Christmas morning running down the stairs to see what Santa left. I almost tripped on the damn leash. Obviously this board doesn't float as well as the rental, it's a lot smaller. It's easier to manage in the surf, but harder to paddle. I make it out to the line up, let all my buds see my new stick. They are excited for me but are not sure if I will be able to pick up where I left off on the rental. I'm up. A good waist high wave comes in and I'm going for it. Paddle, paddle, paddle...not even close. Damn thing is a lot harder to paddle than I thought it would be. I fall out the back of the wave, never really getting in to it. I've learned from my mistake and am ready again. Another good size wave is coming and I'm going for it. I'm paddleing and I think I'm in! I think I'm in! I AM IN!!! GET UP YOU MORON, GET UP. I pop to my feet and head straight for the beach. I don't know how to turn yet, I have no idea what I'm doing. All I know is that I am now a surfer. I will bust my ass and try and try again until I can ride even the biggest, gnarliest waves...... Do any of you remember Big Sunday? What's Big Sunday you ask? I am sure that some of you remember it. I don't remember the date, so if anyone can tell me I would greatly appreciate it. It was an average weekend during last summer (summer of '99). I hit the Dewey around 9:00 Friday night after a long week at work. I commence to get fucked up beyond belief. I remember that cause my sister was down also and I smoked the fattest K.B.'s with her and her boyfriend who I had just met that night. I woke up Saturday afternoon (I don't remember much about the previous night) to a dismall knee high mush. Luckily, about 2 weeks prior, I had just bought a new board that was much better in smaller surf than my older board. It is a 6'2" Ripcurl Fish with fat nose for ease of entering smaller, northeastern mush. So, we went out at our secret spot. It's not that secret, it's just our spot. We had a pretty fun day but, we were all praying for bigger surf. Little did we know that our prayers would be answered. I continue my regular beach behavior and commence to get rip roarin' drunk Saturday night. Before I got too messed up, I convinced a couple of friends to get up early and hit O.C. to check it out. The night goes on as usual and we all pass out wherever we can find room. I, being very gung-ho about the nest morning, remember to set the alarm for 6:00 A.M. When the alarm went off at 6, I did not want to move. But, I had promised people that did not live in the house that I was staying at that I would come and get them. Me and my bud get up and go to our other friends house and try to get them up. They wanted nothing to do with us and my one friend actually got violent when we tried to get him up. So, it was just the two of us. We were already up and figured we might as well go for it. We go to check the surf in Dewey and it looks pretty good. We were getting more and more excited the longer we were on the road. We finally get to southern O.C.(5th street-ish). Upon gettin out of the truck, I see a couple of guys just ending a session. I walk over and ask them how it is. I will never forget the one guys words, "Barrels for everybody." Barrels for everybody? HOLY SHIT! Sitting on the beach trying to stop shaking long enough to get my leash strapped up, I couldn't help but think about that guys words. "Barrels for everybody". Would I finally see the inside of a real toob? We hit the water and realize that this is bigger than either of us has ever seen in person. My friend that made the trip couldn;t get out. He had a really old leash and every time he lost his board, the velcro wouldn't hold and of it came. He finally got out and caught 1 wave. He got drilled, lost his board, and didn't even try to get back out. He was done. I was still up for it. I hadn't caught a wave yet. I am being very careful. There were mostly rights coming in and I am a goofy footer and more comfortable with lefts. I get up the balls to go for it. It's a smaller wave but, still overhead. I didn't have the balls to really drop in. I stayed really high on the wave and got out of there as soon as I could. I get back to the line up and go for it again. This time I go to drop in and the speed is just too much. These waves have got to be double overhead and I'm out on a 6'2" shortboard made for small waves. I got bounced right off. I get tumbled a bit but, it's not that bad. I stay relaxed and hold my breath until it stops. I'm all right. I paddle back out. I catch a couple, get whipped on a couple, but, I am having the time of my life. I can't believe how much fun this is. I wonder if I can get covered? I'm going backside so it's gonna be tough but, I decide I'm gonna try it. First attempt, dismall. Not even close. Second attempt, closer...almost made it. A couple more tries and I can't get it. It's definately big enough; It's definately hollow enough; Why can't I get in there. I've watched enough movies...how do they do it? I know! I can grab my rail and pull myself in. It takes me a couple more tries but, I finally get it. The greatest experience in the world. I can't believe it. I look up and see this wall of water coming down over me. It is almost impossible to explain. Those of you have been there know what I'm talking about. Anyway, I surf until trhe guards come out and kick us out. Then head back to Dewey. It's a lot smaller in Dewey but, still very fun. We surf all day. One of the greatest days of my life. No Doubt.