Getting Started

By: Craig Portner

I’ve noticed that many people on the post have been asking questions about getting started surfing. Here is a “how-to” section on surfing. Please email me with any additions, revisions, or comments about my article.

Choosing the right board

The most vital part of getting started is choosing the right board. You must consider your size, the size of the waves where you surf, and what you can afford. The ideal board to start on is a longboard. Unfortunately longboards tend to be the most expensive type, so you might have to start with something else. Make sure you get a used board, there’s no use spending the cash on a new board because chances are that after a year or so (or maybe a even a week) you’ll want something different. First look for size. Ideally look for something as big as you with your arm extended. But if you’re on a budget, realistically look for something a foot taller than you. For me, ideally I should’ve started with a 8’+ board but my wallet could only handle something 7’2”. There are a few different shapes that boards come in: longboard, fish, funshape, gun, shortboard.

-Longboards are the types of boards that were popular in the 60’s, and they are making a return. They are 8’6 to 11’ long. Both ends of a longboard are rounded. They have one large fin. They are good in small and medium sized waves. They make a good board to start on because of their buoyancy. There are small versions of longboards called mini-logs, they are usually 7’ to 8’6”. They are nice if you’re like me and can’t fit a longboard in your car.

-Funshapes are popular among surfers in the midatlantic area. They’re good for small waves, they’re easy to catch waves, they’re easy to stand on, they’re a great beginner board. They are a bit harder to surf than a longboard but they have the best of both worlds: stability like a longboard and some maneuverability like a shortboard. Like I said, they are very popular which means that they are somewhat hard to find. Keep checking your local shops and you’re bound to eventually get lucky and find one.

-A fish is much like a funshape but the tail is kinda split, shaped like a fish’s tail. These boards are good for small waves and are decent for beginners. The tend to be one of the most popular boards along the east coast.

-A gun is a slender longboard with a pin nose. These boards are for 10’ to 30’ surf so don’t worry about them.

-One of the most popular types of boards today is called a shortboard. Shortboards are 5’6 to 6’11”. Most of the pros you see surf them. They look really cool and you’ll feel like you’re king of the world when you carry it down to the beach but DON’T BUY ONE. At least not til you’re comfortable surfing. You will be extremely frustrated if you try to learn on a shortboard. I know from experience. After a couple of months you may want to pick up a crappy one for cheap just to mess around on. Once you have the ability to ride one, they are fun because of their speed and maneuverability. The only downside is that they don't work so well in small surf and you get shorter rides.

After finding a board the right size and shape you want, you’ll have to consider its condition. Looks are the least important thing. Make sure that the board doesn’t have any cracks or holes. Most used boards will have some patches, make sure that these patches are good. Remember, your board has to be water tight or it wont float!! Check the fins, Make sure that they aren’t loose. Once you’ve found a board in surfable condition, you must consider price. If you look on some other beginning surfing websites, they’ll tell you that your first board should cost you $50-$100. I don’t know where they live but I haven’t seen a board at a shop in OC under $150. I’d probably say anywhere from $175-215 for a good beginner board.

Waxing

Unlike snowboarding, the purpose of wax is to help you stick on the board. Surf wax is tacky. Some popular brands are Da Kine, Sex Wax, Mrs. Palmers, and Sticky Bumps. They all have the same purpose but everybody has their own personal preferences. My personal favorite is Sticky Bumps. Rub the wax on from the tail to near the nose of the board. Some guys even rub it on the rails so that they can get a better grip on the board. Rub it in every direction possible. A thick bumpy buildup is best. Sure it’ll make your board look a little less pretty but it’ll help a lot.

Paddling Out

Paddling is much like swimming, only you don’t use your legs. Cup your hands for maximum speed. Try to get to the lineup as quickly as you can without being hammered by oncoming waves or getting in the way of somebody’s ride. One thing you’ll learn is that paddling takes plenty of endurance. If you are going to get bombed with a wave (caught inside is the surfer term), either hold on tight to your board and try to dive under the oncoming wave or go over it if possible. On a big day paddling out can be extremely dangerous for a beginner so be careful.

The Lineup

I think some instructional websites try to scare you about the lineup. Here is all you need to know. Be friendly, give the other guys a “whatsup”. If the wave is breaking right to left, stay on the outside left. Don’t drop in on anybody and if you accidentally do, apologize. Most guys are cool about beginners, so don’t worry about it too much. Localism is one of the darkest aspects of surfing, if you get hassled try to ignore them or find a different spot.

Catching a Wave

When you first start surfing you tend to scrap after every wave. Patience is a virtue. Wait for a ridable wave. When the wave is on its way position yourself towards the shore and start paddling at a steady pace. Don't paddle too far though, because you want to be in position where the wave is just beginning to break. Keep looking over your shoulder to see when the wave is going to get to you. When its about 4’ behind you, paddle like hell. Some guys paddle one arm at a time and other use both arms together. I’ve tried both and I prefer the both arm method. Remember, it’s a rule of physics that you must be going at the same speed as the wave in order to catch it. Once you start to catch it, keep your nose out of the water. Don’t put your weight too forward on the board. If you don’t, perling will occur. This is when the board shoots under the water and your body keeps going at the waves speed. It’s kinda like being shot out of a cannon. It must look pretty funny from the shore but perling can shake you up and make you look like an ass. If you feel yourself perling either put your weight on the rear of the board or really dig in.

Standing Up

There’s not too much I can say about standing up. You just have to do it to totally understand. It’s like doing a huge pushup. Try to get to your feet with equal weight on each foot. Keep your stance wide for stability. Lean forward. Bend your knees not your waist. Use your arms for balance. Once your standing you’ll feel like you’re on top of the world. It’s like the Billabong motto “Only a surfer knows the feeling”.

Miscellaneous

Just because you live a few hours from the beach, don’t give up the idea of surfing. As long as you have your license and a car you can still do it. I live 3 hours from the beach. Over the summer I plan my work schedule so that I can go down to the beach once a week. It’s definitely worth it. Surfing is an experience like no other. Good luck.

	Getting Started By: Craig Portner I’ve noticed that many people on the post have been asking questions about getting started surfing. Here is a “how-to” section on surfing. Please email me with any additions, revisions, or comments about my article. Choosing the right board The most vital part of getting started is choosing the right board. You must consider your size, the size of the waves where you surf, and what you can afford. The ideal board to start on is a longboard. Unfortunately longboards tend to be the most expensive type, so you might have to start with something else. Make sure you get a used board, there’s no use spending the cash on a new board because chances are that after a year or so (or maybe a even a week) you’ll want something different. First look for size. Ideally look for something as big as you with your arm extended. But if you’re on a budget, realistically look for something a foot taller than you. For me, ideally I should’ve started with a 8’+ board but my wallet could only handle something 7’2”. There are a few different shapes that boards come in: longboard, fish, funshape, gun, shortboard. -Longboards are the types of boards that were popular in the 60’s, and they are making a return. They are 8’6 to 11’ long. Both ends of a longboard are rounded. They have one large fin. They are good in small and medium sized waves. They make a good board to start on because of their buoyancy. There are small versions of longboards called mini-logs, they are usually 7’ to 8’6”. They are nice if you’re like me and can’t fit a longboard in your car. -Funshapes are popular among surfers in the midatlantic area. They’re good for small waves, they’re easy to catch waves, they’re easy to stand on, they’re a great beginner board. They are a bit harder to surf than a longboard but they have the best of both worlds: stability like a longboard and some maneuverability like a shortboard. Like I said, they are very popular which means that they are somewhat hard to find. Keep checking your local shops and you’re bound to eventually get lucky and find one. -A fish is much like a funshape but the tail is kinda split, shaped like a fish’s tail. These boards are good for small waves and are decent for beginners. The tend to be one of the most popular boards along the east coast. -A gun is a slender longboard with a pin nose. These boards are for 10’ to 30’ surf so don’t worry about them. -One of the most popular types of boards today is called a shortboard. Shortboards are 5’6 to 6’11”. Most of the pros you see surf them. They look really cool and you’ll feel like you’re king of the world when you carry it down to the beach but DON’T BUY ONE. At least not til you’re comfortable surfing. You will be extremely frustrated if you try to learn on a shortboard. I know from experience. After a couple of months you may want to pick up a crappy one for cheap just to mess around on. Once you have the ability to ride one, they are fun because of their speed and maneuverability. The only downside is that they don't work so well in small surf and you get shorter rides. After finding a board the right size and shape you want, you’ll have to consider its condition. Looks are the least important thing. Make sure that the board doesn’t have any cracks or holes. Most used boards will have some patches, make sure that these patches are good. Remember, your board has to be water tight or it wont float!! Check the fins, Make sure that they aren’t loose. Once you’ve found a board in surfable condition, you must consider price. If you look on some other beginning surfing websites, they’ll tell you that your first board should cost you $50-$100. I don’t know where they live but I haven’t seen a board at a shop in OC under $150. I’d probably say anywhere from $175-215 for a good beginner board. Waxing Unlike snowboarding, the purpose of wax is to help you stick on the board. Surf wax is tacky. Some popular brands are Da Kine, Sex Wax, Mrs. Palmers, and Sticky Bumps. They all have the same purpose but everybody has their own personal preferences. My personal favorite is Sticky Bumps. Rub the wax on from the tail to near the nose of the board. Some guys even rub it on the rails so that they can get a better grip on the board. Rub it in every direction possible. A thick bumpy buildup is best. Sure it’ll make your board look a little less pretty but it’ll help a lot. Paddling Out Paddling is much like swimming, only you don’t use your legs. Cup your hands for maximum speed. Try to get to the lineup as quickly as you can without being hammered by oncoming waves or getting in the way of somebody’s ride. One thing you’ll learn is that paddling takes plenty of endurance. If you are going to get bombed with a wave (caught inside is the surfer term), either hold on tight to your board and try to dive under the oncoming wave or go over it if possible. On a big day paddling out can be extremely dangerous for a beginner so be careful. The Lineup I think some instructional websites try to scare you about the lineup. Here is all you need to know. Be friendly, give the other guys a “whatsup”. If the wave is breaking right to left, stay on the outside left. Don’t drop in on anybody and if you accidentally do, apologize. Most guys are cool about beginners, so don’t worry about it too much. Localism is one of the darkest aspects of surfing, if you get hassled try to ignore them or find a different spot. Catching a Wave When you first start surfing you tend to scrap after every wave. Patience is a virtue. Wait for a ridable wave. When the wave is on its way position yourself towards the shore and start paddling at a steady pace. Don't paddle too far though, because you want to be in position where the wave is just beginning to break. Keep looking over your shoulder to see when the wave is going to get to you. When its about 4’ behind you, paddle like hell. Some guys paddle one arm at a time and other use both arms together. I’ve tried both and I prefer the both arm method. Remember, it’s a rule of physics that you must be going at the same speed as the wave in order to catch it. Once you start to catch it, keep your nose out of the water. Don’t put your weight too forward on the board. If you don’t, perling will occur. This is when the board shoots under the water and your body keeps going at the waves speed. It’s kinda like being shot out of a cannon. It must look pretty funny from the shore but perling can shake you up and make you look like an ass. If you feel yourself perling either put your weight on the rear of the board or really dig in. Standing Up There’s not too much I can say about standing up. You just have to do it to totally understand. It’s like doing a huge pushup. Try to get to your feet with equal weight on each foot. Keep your stance wide for stability. Lean forward. Bend your knees not your waist. Use your arms for balance. Once your standing you’ll feel like you’re on top of the world. It’s like the Billabong motto “Only a surfer knows the feeling”. Miscellaneous Just because you live a few hours from the beach, don’t give up the idea of surfing. As long as you have your license and a car you can still do it. I live 3 hours from the beach. Over the summer I plan my work schedule so that I can go down to the beach once a week. It’s definitely worth it. Surfing is an experience like no other. Good luck.